Madeira Deep Dive: Atlantic Island Sailing
Madeira sits at 32 degrees north and 17 degrees west, a mountainous island of ancient laurel forest and volcanic cliffs that rises sharply from 4,000 metres of ocean floor to a summit, Pico Ruivo, at 1,862 metres. It belongs politically to Portugal but geographically to the mid-Atlantic, sitting roughly equidistant between Lisbon and the Canaries, and almost exactly due north of the Cape Verde archipelago. For the sailor making a southbound passage toward the trade wind zone, Madeira is a natural waypoint — one that repays extended visiting rather than a quick fuel stop.
The Approach and First Impressions
The standard approach to Funchal from the north is along the island's east coast past the cliffs at Ponta de São Lourenço, where the island tapers into a thin volcanic peninsula of red and ochre rock. In a trade wind swell the coast is exposed here, and the sea state can be uncomfortable close inshore. Most boats round the southeast corner and enter Funchal Bay from the east, giving the city its most dramatic presentation: a natural amphitheatre of hills rising from the waterfront, covered in white houses, bougainvillea, and the distinctive black and white church towers of the old town.
Funchal Marina, now known as the Marina do Funchal, sits directly below the old city. It has around 250 berths, adequate for most cruising yachts, and a dedicated fuel dock. The approach is straightforward in daylight; the harbour lights are well laid out for night entry.
Marina do Funchal: Facilities and Services
The marina has been redeveloped in recent years and the facilities are now of a good European standard. Shore power, water, pump-out, WiFi, and a laundry service are all available. A chandlery operates near the marina entrance; for more specialist items the mainland Portuguese chandleries are better resourced but can ship by courier in two to three days.
The marina is in the centre of Funchal, which is the great advantage of the location. The famous Mercado dos Lavradores — the Workers' Market — is a 15-minute walk and sells the island's famous orchids, passionfruit, banana, and the endemic Funchal banana, smaller and sweeter than the supermarket variety. The Old Town, with its painted doors and street art installations, is 10 minutes east along the waterfront. Wine merchants in the old town sell Madeira wine — the fortified, oxidised wine that was the drink of the British Navy and of the American founding fathers — directly from the producers.
Quinta do Lorde Marina
On the east end of Madeira, tucked behind the Ponta de São Lourenço peninsula, the Quinta do Lorde marina opened in the 2000s as a quieter, more sheltered alternative to Funchal. It has around 180 berths, a travel lift up to 50 tonnes, and a boatyard with full repair facilities. The location is more exposed to the northeast swell than Funchal in some conditions, but the marina itself is well protected by its inner breakwater. The resort hotel complex provides provisioning and dining; the marina is 20 minutes by taxi from the airport at Santa Catarina.
Porto Santo: The Satellite Island
Porto Santo lies 45 miles north-northeast of Madeira and is separated from the main island by a channel that can be rough in the northeast trade swell but is usually a pleasant day sail. Porto Santo is everything Madeira is not: flat, sandy, and sun-drenched. Its 9-kilometre beach on the south coast, Praia de Porto Santo, is the main attraction — fine golden sand of a quality that makes Madeira's volcanic coastline seem harsh by comparison.
The marina at Vila Baleira, Porto Santo's main town, has around 100 berths and is the best-protected anchorage in the area. Christopher Columbus lived on Porto Santo in the 1470s when he was married to Filipa Moniz Perestrelo, daughter of the island's governor — a residence that presumably contributed to his understanding of Atlantic winds and currents. The Columbus House museum in Vila Baleira is well worth an hour.
Inter-Island Weather and Passages
The wind between Madeira and Porto Santo is almost always from the northeast and usually 15–20 knots. The trade wind swell rolls in from the north-northeast at 2–3 metres and the crossing, being directly into the swell, is a wet beat in most conditions. The return to Madeira is a fast reach.
From Madeira south to the Canaries is 270 miles on a course of about 165 degrees. The passage is typically a comfortable reach in the northeast trade wind and takes 40–60 hours in a moderate yacht. From Funchal to Las Palmas is the most travelled leg of the eastern Atlantic circuit.
Sailing Season and Weather
Madeira's sailing season is year-round. The island has a mild, subtropical climate with temperatures between 18 and 28 degrees Celsius. In winter the northeast trade winds strengthen and the north coast becomes rough; the south coast, with Funchal, remains relatively sheltered. In summer the trades weaken and the calima — the Saharan dust haze equivalent of the Canarian phenomenon — occasionally reduces visibility. Gales are rare in summer and uncommon even in winter, but the island's topography creates violent downdraughts (known locally as "williwaws") on the lee side in strong wind conditions.
Walking, Levadas, and the Interior
Sailors who extend their stay find Madeira's interior as extraordinary as its coastline. The levadas — an ancient network of irrigation channels that traverse the island at various elevations — double as walking trails. The Levada do Caldeirão Verde trail traverses old-growth laurel forest (the remnant of the Macaronesian laurisilva that once covered southern Europe and the Canary Islands) in a series of tunnels and cliff-edge paths. A day's walk from Funchal can take you from sea level to the Central Plateau at 1,500 metres.
Explore on the map
Madeira and Porto Santo — their marinas, anchorages, inter-island passages, and position within the broader North Atlantic sailing circuit — are all mapped on our interactive map. Zoom into Madeira on the map to plan your approach, identify anchorage options on both islands, and trace the southbound route toward the Canaries and beyond.